Author: Dave

  • My First Real Barrel

    My First Real Barrel

    I’ve met several surfers over the last few weeks who were searching for their first real barrel. I could relate to their search for what felt to me like chasing a unicorn for so long, and I was hoping I’d get to see the look on their face when they found theirs. Although I never…

  • The Rollercoaster

    The Rollercoaster

    I sat down immediately after a session in South Africa to write this letter home. With hair still wet and sand on my feet I felt compelled to get it out of my head and on to “paper” before I lost the feeling. Here’s ‘The Rollercoaster’ Hey Dad, I had a wave today that reminded…

  • A Lower Dose of BS

    A Lower Dose of BS

    I recently realized I’ve been living my life without that extra dose of BS I had been serving up to myself for so long. What is the BS? I’m at the train station in Madrid in line for boarding a train for Barcelona when the tenant informs me they do not accept surfboards. This is…

  • Meeting The Old Wizard

    Meeting The Old Wizard

    What’s up dudes and dudettes? I just buckled my board, but luckily it was at the end of a 3 hour session. I saw a ballie surfing the other day that reminded me of a legendary character I met in the desert of Morocco. “Ballie” is my second favorite slang word from South Africa, used…

  • The Discovery of Witch’s Finger

    The Discovery of Witch’s Finger

    A local surfer had told me there were a few good, uncrowded waves up the coast. Breaks close to town were surprisingly crowded. Despite favorable winds throughout the day, people were getting on them at sunrise and around 8 or 9 AM surf camps would show up with vans of surfers, flooding the peak. When…

  • Bookends

    Sometimes I try to get logical about things as illogical as chasing a stoke. Could I paddle out, catch one wave and come back in stoked? I think it’s possible. I’ve seen guys do it. Two days ago an old dude, at least 60 years old, paddled out at dusk. I was thinking to myself,…

  • Chasing Barrels in Vietnam

    In going back through my notes I found several about the ups and downs of surfing in Vietnam. It’s such a weird surf scene in so many ways. Some surfers I met there said they love it. Others won’t even be bothered to paddle out.  My experience has been confusing. I’ve left the water feeling…

  • Small Purchase, Big Mistake

    Small Purchase, Big Mistake

    I’ve made a huge mistake. As a minimalist who travels with one carryon duffel bag that doubles as a backpack and one board bag with two boards, I take gear and purchases seriously. I simply don’t have room for any bad buys. One tactic I’ve adopted is a sort of catch and release system. Some…

  • The Morning Calibration

    The Morning Calibration

    The mornings I don’t have a surf session I feel a little off. A touch of lethargy follows me around throughout the day. I’m a little more anxious and little less grateful. Even the ‘not-so-great’ surf sessions set me up for an all-around better day. It’s often cold and difficult to bring myself to paddle…

  • Sugar On My Tongue

    Surfing is like sugar. It comes in many forms and, at least for me, has a predictable affect on the brain. When sugar hits my tongue I get an immediate reward shortly followed by a strong craving for more. I can’t remember a single surf session where I’ve caught a good wave at the beginning…