Author: Dave

  • The Buzzer Beater

    The Buzzer Beater

    I’m looking down the line at a peeling right-hander from the best possible vantage point. I’ve dropped in, my feet are set, I’m coming out of a shallow bottom turn, and I’m rising up the face of the wave to make sure I can get enough speed to make the next section. These first few…

  • Introduction: What To Expect When Reading A Surfer’s Notebook

    Introduction: What To Expect When Reading A Surfer’s Notebook

    Hi, my name is Dave and like many surfers I’ve optimized my life around catching great waves.  The last few years I’ve been on a surf safari, traveling the world surfing remote waves, living what most surfers would consider to be ‘the dream life’. From famous right hand points in South Africa to unknown left…